Creativity Is King Ten Technical Innovation Watches

Watches and clocks are not a fashion and trend industry. What is needed is accumulation and precipitation. Therefore, while discussing the ‘buffalo’ watch on the ‘double exhibition’, we also need to spend time to digest and absorb the past boutiques. Breaking down the ten most representative technological innovation masterpieces of last year, the right soldiers before the start of a new journey, should also be the memory of the master watchmaking spirit and affirmation.
Aya Chanel J12 RÉTROGRADE MYSTÉRIEUSE
Innovative type Combination of new time display and automatic machinery
Innovative keywords: vertical crown lifting, mysterious retrograde, hidden buttons, digital auxiliary instructions
Movement: Tailored by Guilio Papi
Case: High-tech precision ceramics
Dial: Hollow, multi-level screw fixing
Band: Linked high-tech precision ceramics
[Comment] From the first ‘sports-style tourbillon’ to the legendary ‘Eight Heavenly Kings’, Master Guilio Papi will not disappoint every shot; from the iconic ‘high-tech precision ceramics’ to two years ago With the launch of ‘3125’, every step Chanel has taken in recent years has shown us its firm determination to enter the field of professional watchmaking. When strength and determination meet, unexpected magic happens. The advent of Chanel J12 ‘Mysterious Retrograde’ is the best testimony of the legend created by Chanel and Master Papi.
Cartier ID One Concept Watch
Innovative applications of a variety of new materials
Innovative keywords: niobium-titanium alloy, glass-ceramic, carbon crystal, one-piece pallet, lubrication-free, ADLC coating
Movement: copper plywood with ADLC coating, Geneva stripe polished
Case: Niobium titanium case
Dial: Carbon crystal transparent dial
Strap: black fabric strap, 18K white gold adjustable folding buckle
Case diameter: 46 mm
评论 [Comment] In the minds of many people, it seems that most of the things related to the term ‘concept’ are ‘illusive’ and ‘immaterial’. However, except for watches. As a traditional ‘time carrier’, watches are now given more meaning than simply recording time. Cartier, a brand that was once titled ‘Emperor’s Jeweler, Jeweler’s Emperor’, today has become an icon of innovation and progress in the professional watch industry. The ID One Concept in front of it has become more than a ‘concept table’.
Montblanc Villeret 1858 Series Metamorphosis Watch
Innovative applications of automatic robotic devices in watches
Innovative keywords: robot control technology, convertible dual dial
Movement: Based on MBM 16.29 movement, manual winding single button chronograph movement
壳 Case: 18K white gold case Dial: titanium and stainless steel dial
Bracelet: Hand-stitched crocodile leather strap, 18K white gold buckle
Case diameter: 38.4mm Power reserve: about 55 hours Water resistance: 30 meters
评论 [Comment] If you want to ask about the really attractive characteristics of this watch, it’s like men like Transformers instead of an eternal puppet—manipulation and control are the pursuit that men will never tire of. A few years ago, the rise of the traditional ‘fashion brand’ in the watchmaking industry caused many colleagues to infer that ‘the future is the world of’ fashion watchmaking brands ‘. Judging from the development trend in the past two years, this fact is not only the case, but the ‘professionalization’ of watchmaking in fashion brands is accelerating. Montblanc’s ‘change face’ speed illustrates this point.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition complication watch
Innovation type Fusion of multiple complex functions
Innovative keywords: ‘7 U. E X F K H W Hammer’ three questions, pointer flying tourbillon, stellar time, silicon escapement
Movement: 945 manual winding movement
Wobble frequency: 28800 times / hour
Power reserve: 48 hoursCase: 18K white goldWater resistance: 50 meters
评论 [Comment] Jaeger-LeCoultre’s deep accumulation in various technical fields makes it an excellent advantage in integrating various elements into ‘tables’. In many aspects of clock technology, the charm of astronomy lies not only in its mysterious colors and intricate mechanical mechanism layout, but also in its original connection with the time culture carried by clocks. Jaeger-LeCoultre combines patented minute repeater, flying tourbillon with astronomy-related astrolabe, stellar time, zodiac signs, etc. through super integration and creativity Captive masterpiece.
Breguet Sesame Chain Tourbillon Watch
Innovation types Traditional craftsmanship and innovative materials
Innovative keywords: titanium balance, silicon balance spring
Movement: Cal. 569 manual winding tourbillon mechanical movement
Case: Platinum case, diameter 41 mm
Dial: 18K gold-plated silver dial with Mr. Breguet’s signature
Power reserve: 50 hours Water resistance: 30 meters
评论 [Review] In 2006, Breguet launched the first silicon balance spring and escapement. As the advantages of this innovative material in terms of shock resistance and abrasion resistance have been verified, Breguet has taken the opportunity to promote its use in other important watch styles. Many people regard the ‘seed chain’, a traditional technology that has been lost in modern times, as a ‘great invention equal to the tourbillon mechanism’. Today, Breguet not only relocates it to watches, but also uses a variety of new materials with patented technology. Old trees and new flowers, don’t have a flavor.
Zenith El Primero 1/10 Jump Chronograph
Innovation type Fusion of retrograde and melodrama
Innovative keywords: Jump seconds, 1/10 second chronograph, chronograph second hand rotates once every 10 seconds
Movement: El Primero 400 B movement, self-winding
Diameter: 30 mm thickness: 6.60 mm
Wobble frequency: 36000 times / hour
Power reserve: at least 50 hours
评论 [Review] El Primero calibre’s ultra-high swing frequency of 36,000 times / hour makes it the same in the field of chronographs and is loved by many brands. After the baptism of the quartz crisis, Zenith continued to inject new vitality into this legendary movement, making it still the tide of chronograph technology. The biggest feature of this 1/10 second chronograph is that the designer uses the advantage of the high frequency of the movement to stretch the trajectory of the second hand per second, so that the subtle ‘jumps’ that are not detectable by the naked eye are clearly displayed. .
Van Cleef & Arpels ELe Pont des Amoureux retrograde watch
Innovation type Fusion of retrograde and melodrama
Innovative keywords: retrograde, romantic scenes
Movement: mechanical movement
Case: round diamond white gold case (38mm)
Dial: Backlit silhouette enamel dial, platinum plywood
Strap: crocodile leather strap, white gold inlaid diamond buckle
评论 [Comment] Women all love flowers and diamonds, and of course romantic love stories. Women are animals of love, and they will weep for the illusory plot, but have you heard of women who are interested in the retrograde device of a movement for a watch? This is the night of the flower capital that makes the ‘love’ interpretation and the enamel technology make this watch easily change from the cold mechanical to the romantic and emotional thinking, so it seems that the passage of time becomes distinctive when reading. stand up.
Hublot LIBERTY bullet concept table
Innovative type Unique digital display method of drum
Innovative keywords: Drum display, digital time scale, vertical tourbillon
Movement: manually wound CHH9000 movement
Movement size: diameter 20 mm, length 29.50 mm
Dial / ruler: Rotate digital display hours and minutes
Power reserve: 120 hours Ruby: 36 pieces Waterproof: 30 meters
评论 [Comment] The sentence in the New Year’s film is the answer: let the bullets fly for a while. Today, this ‘bullet’ watch designed by the original BNB’s first young watchmakers has quietly landed on Hublot’s territory. In fact, along with the ‘bullet’, there are a large number of design masterpieces and their designers. Hublot provides these young people who are passionate about watches with the opportunity to continue to show their talents, while also injecting a strong shot into their production lines in the field of complex high-end movements. Since then, we have a little more expectation for the annual show.
Aimei Ingenious Series Three Hands One Line Square Wheel Watch
Innovative types challenge the shape of traditional circular gears
Innovative keywords: square gear, clover gear
Movement: Amy ML153 movement
Hands: The square wheel indicates the hour, the upper part is rounded silk satin processing, the edges are polished, the hands are covered with C1 Superluminova blue luminous coating
Case: stainless steel, diameter 43.5 mm, silk satin and polished. Curved sapphire crystal double-sided anti-glare mirror. Oversized sapphire crystal screw-down case back, limited release number
Waterproof: 50 meters
Dial: matte background with unique ‘black gold’ vertical silk satin-finished watch
评论 [Comment] Some people may think that calling such a small gear a technological innovation is a little convincing. However, after you understand the design and production process of the special gear, you may change your inherent thinking. Ordinary involute gears can be processed by lathes in batches because the tooth profile and pitch are uniform specifications. And for this kind of square profiled gear with a different shape of each tooth, only one tooth and one tooth are performed, and the task must be quite fine.
GrDe Grisogono Meccanico dG S25D
Innovative type Combination of mechanical pointer and digital display
Innovative keywords: dual display of pointer and number, black diamond
Movement: manual winding mechanical movement
Dial: Power reserve display, analog display hours and minutes, 18K rose gold
Case: Rose Gold
Bottom: Sapphire case back
Strap: Natural rubber strap 18K gold rose gold butterfly buckle
Waterproof: 30 meters
评论 [Review] is the first company in the world to use black diamonds to make jewellery and watches, especially known for its bold ideas. The most challenging technology of this watch is the mechanical display of quartzized digital time under the dial. Based on previous versions, De Grisogono has created a number of new outerwear tailored for this watch. After putting on the ‘Vest’, this technical masterpiece instantly showed another sense of mechanical luxury.