Month: September 2010

Lightly Tempered Tasting Hamilton Railway Series Watch

Just as I talk about Swiss watchmaking, I have to talk about ValleedeJoux, and when I talk about German watchmaking, I have to talk about Glashütte, and I am talking about the American watchmaking industry. The development of China must be inseparable from the railway accident that was once severe in the United States at the end of the 19th century. In the United States in the 1880s, almost every town and village had its own timing standard, so train travel was very chaotic. As there are more than 50 kinds of railway timing methods, which are uneven and cause serious accidents frequently, the complicated and complicated timetables are confusing for passengers. After a few years, time was standardized, and that changed. In 1892, Hamilton Watch Company introduced accurate and reliable railway timers for railway companies, which further optimized the accuracy of railway operations. Today, the Watch House brings you a watch of the Hamilton Railway series. Reference model: H40656731.

Compared to the meticulous craftsmanship of Swiss watchmaking brands and the rigor and exquisiteness of German watchmaking brands, my feelings for Hamilton are a completely different free-spirited American style. Maybe at first glance it feels too rough and straightforward, but the longer it looks, the more it feels kind and comfortable. If you use the famous ladies to compare Swiss watchmaking styles, and compare German watchmaking styles to masters, then this watch is It feels more like a friend next door.

Complex function illustration

At first glance at this watch, the first thing that hit me was the spiral scale on the dial of this watch. It is also the perfect embellishment of orange that brings a little youthful vitality to this watch, which in turn makes it easy to look too serious in black and white to bring a touch of maturity.

Compared to expensive three questions, flashy moon phases, and tourbillons that are not practical for watches, the chronograph function may be the most practical complication on mechanical watches today, adding a single chronograph function The speed scale is a icing on the cake. However, for many table friends who are new to the watch, the speed measurement function is often considered too complicated, so the speed measurement function has been lack of attention. In fact, the principle of this function is very simple.

We know that the formula for calculating speed is v = s / t. We usually use the milestone on the highway as a symbol for speed measurement. In this way, the distance we measure is fixed, that is, one kilometer. The elapsed time, so that a scale equal to each second can be calculated as a speed, that is, the speed scale corresponds to the chronograph second hand scale, such as one minute walk at 12 o’clock, If the speed measurement just stopped at this time, then the speed is one kilometer per minute, that is, 60 km / h, so the speed scale of 60 must be marked at 12 o’clock.

However, the traditional speed measurement scale also has disadvantages, that is, the lowest speed that can be measured is 60 km / h. If the speed is slower, the scale is not enough. Hamilton’s watch adds a two-speed tachymeter scale through this clever spiral scale design in the center of the dial, allowing it to measure speeds as low as 20 km / h. This has to be said to be a very clever design. It not only greatly increases the versatility of speed measurement, but also gives the original cold and serious numbers and scales a little young vitality.

This is just the right touch of orange. One more point is casual, and one point is less serious, making this watch exude a touch of youth in the original low-key temperament. In addition, as a member of the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch manufacturer and distributor, Hamilton has always incorporated the finest Swiss watchmaking technology while adhering to the blood of American watchmaking style.

The inlaid chronograph dial ring and the printed small seconds dial seem ordinary, but in my opinion, this is the crucial balance to control the vitality of the watch and the serious details.

First of all, the two inner disk rings with a 30-minute cumulative time display at 12 o’clock and a 12-hour cumulative time display at 6 o’clock use a mosaic three-dimensional design. This aspect enhances the legibility of the chronograph dial. Its icy metallic luster neutralizes the randomness of the tachymeter scale, adds a bit of intelligence and rationality, making this watch look more stable, and thus has the seriousness suitable for formal occasions supplemented by formal wear.

Secondly, the small seconds at 9 o’clock is cleverly not designed as a three-dimensional metal inner ring at the same time, but simply printed on the dial. This aspect avoids excessively obscuring the speed scale, which makes it redundant. On the other hand, the visual weight between the top and bottom, left and right of the entire dial is more balanced. Elegant polished sword-shaped hands and sharp, fine nickel-plated indexes add a subtle elegance to the model.

At 3 o’clock on the dial, an inlaid metal brand logo resembles a delicate badge and a pocket on the chest of a gentleman’s suit, which at the same time highlights the brand’s distinguished identity and adds a touch of elegance to the watch. A small calendar window at 4 o’clock under the logo has clear numbers and the size is just right. It does not break the overall beauty of the dial.

The watchmaking process of the brand’s excellence is also reflected in the case. Viewed from the side, the contour of the case is round and full, exuding the special rough style of American watchmaking. The matte-polished case sets off the satin-polished bezel, which not only adds a layer to the monotonous side of the case It also tightens the contour of the case in both the front and the side, so that it is not too heavy.

Similarly, look at the lugs again. A satin-finished cut groove on the outer edges of the matte polished lugs makes the lugs appear more slender, so there is no need to design long lugs to fit the relatively wide case, and it is not necessary to sacrifice the lugs. The intensity makes the lugs too slim. The treatment of this groove also maintains the smooth and round lines of the watch itself, with a soft mid-band, reminiscent of the lines of a sports car, exuding a unique fashion and mechanical temperament.

Unlike common chronographs, this watch has two vertical wire drawing conical bridges for the two chronograph buttons to protect the buttons. The crown is not designed to protect the bridge, but uses a unique The design of the flat gear type not only protects the crown, but also makes the lines on the side of the case more rounded, so that the protruding buttons and crown do not cause the oblique sense of sideways, which makes people feel oblique. Can’t help but think back to the nostalgic mood of the railway pocket watch era.

The center of the case back, which is fixed with 6 screws, is embedded with a sapphire crystal glass, through which you can see the movement of the movement. I’m used to seeing many meticulously carved movements, and suddenly see such a movement, I think everyone’s first impression is the same, except for the rotor and the main splint, the rest of the movement parts at first glance There is almost no polish, and I have to admire the bold style of the brand.

This seemingly rough movement abandons the flashy grinding. While ensuring the movement of the movement is accurate, it only retains the necessary grinding process. If other brands have long designed it as a dense bottom. Although this movement is not delicate when polished, it is very uniform. With the untouched large screws, it is quite rough and wild. This bold design reflects the free spirit of the United States. I’m used to it, but I feel a bit stubborn and cute.

The movement on this watch is Hamilton’s famous H-21 movement. This movement is an improvement of the 7750 movement, one of the ETA’s ace movements. The 7750 is a good function, practical and sturdy machine. The core is equipped with a fast and slow needle device and has a scale indicator to facilitate fine-tuning operation. It has been used in many famous brand models. The improvement of Hamilton’s H-21 movement mainly focuses on improving the stability accuracy of the movement and extending the movement power reserve. In terms of increasing the power reserve, the kinetic energy reserve was extended from 48 hours of 7750 to 60 hours; in terms of smoother and more stable operation, a very clever change was made, the balance spring of the escapement was turned 180 degrees, and the movement of the movement was smoother. Stability, so that the movement has the accuracy close to the COSC astronomical table. The unique personality of the brand in pursuing practicality and accuracy is presented.

This watch is equipped with a black crocodile leather strap and a simple and convenient folding buckle. The orange pins on the strap subtly echo the gorgeous orange speed scale on the dial. Gives an air of youth and fashion.

Summary: In my opinion, familiarity is more a fashionable attitude towards life than a stage of life that everyone will experience. First of all, you need to go through wind and rain, have seen the rainbow, so that you have a more mature mind, able to restrain desires, handle life properly, and identify the direction of life; second, you also need to have a young mentality and vitality, be able to dress appropriately, have unique taste, and achieve Enjoy fashion without obeying blindly. Just like what this watch brings to me, it is still a little lively in calmness. (Picture / Text Watch House Xie Xin)

More watch details: hamilton / 34946 /

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